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3. MOLDINGS

A MOLDING IS A BREAK in a flat surface designed to form an accent by catching light and shade. The various basic shapes of Moldings and their technical names are shown herewith. All Moldings, however, can be classified broadly into three categories: Flat or angular, single-curved and compound. The last named may be a combination of two different curves or of curves and angles to­gether. These combinations make possible very in­volved and complex molding designs.

Certain ornaments form the decoration traditionally applied to the different types. The classical use of embellishment is as follows: Egg and dart is used for the ovolo, wreath forms for the torus, bead (beading) and real (rope) for the astragal, anthemion and acan­thus for the cyma recta and water-leaf for the cyma reversa.

Moldings in general are always designated by their "profile". A deep profile would be a molding having a high outside edge like the splay and a high profile would be similar to the champfer. Wide, narrow and shallow profiles are self-explanatory.

The profile of a molding is the cross-section or end-view and many beginners find it extremely diffi­cult to visualize a molding or a finished frame from this view only. It is therefore important to form a mental picture of the type of frame one has in mind and then to try drawing a cross-section of the molding for practice. Unless this is done (even if the molding is selected directly from stock), one will be frequently disappointed when the frame is made.

It is often necessary, when selecting ready-made frames for finishing from a catalogue, to choose them by the profile alone. They may appear precisely the opposite of what was expected unless extension of their finished appearance can be made mentally.

To make the foregoing clearer, the view of the molding shown herewith is called the profile. Its various parts have been lettered for identification.

A—WIDTH OF MOLDING            FF-BEADS OR RIDGES
B-DEPTH OF MOLDING                                    G—FILLET
C-FACE OR TOP OF MOLDING                    H-TOP EDGE
D-INSIDE EDGE                               I—DEPTH OF RABBET
E—LIP OF RABBET                            J-BACK OF RABBET
K-OUTSIDE EDGE

Throughout this book references will be made to the different sections of a frame and if in doubt as to what part of the frame is meant in a description, refer­ence to the diagram will clarify the point. Throughout the text, effort has been made to explain other fram­ing terms which may seem confusing to the non-pro­fessional. The serious beginner will do well to familiar­ize himself with the technical terms used in the pic­ture framing trade.

Assuming that most artists or home craftsmen do not possess sufficient power tools to turn out all the styles of Moldings which may be needed for different pictures, it will be necessary first to discuss the use of ready-made Moldings and their substitutes.

Unless it is planned to make frames only very rarely, it will be found much more satisfactory to buy ready-made Moldings from a company specializing in them. They will be uniform in quality and size, and profes­sional frames can be produced much more rapidly from them. Besides, a large quantity will not have to be ordered as would be the case if a molding was designed and specially turned out at a lumber mill.

Naturally, special needs are to be the first considera­tion, but unless some experience has been had in frame making, it is wiser to select the plainer types in the beginning. The basic molding for oil paintings or other large pictures should have character but should also be quite simple in profile. It should be wide enough to be useful for experimentation with bold, severe decoration. Its plainness will permit the addition of strips of other decorative Moldings such as rope or beading to give it interest and variety.

As a suggestion, a 2½" to 3" wide, ordinary scoop molding might be chosen as the first basic shape. The inside or top edge can be decorated with a simple geometric design. Beading, etc., can be easily applied andtextured finishes will show up well. Enough should be purchased for several frames at first, and plans made to make each one as different in decora­tion and finish as possible.

For smaller pictures, water-colors and pictures with glass and mats, a narrower stock molding should be selected. This molding, perhaps 1½' wide, could be a little more involved in profile since it would not necessarily need the curved decorations. Textured and painted finishes should certainly give enough variety.

Lastly, it will be wise to have on hand varying widths of flat, plain Moldings which can be used for prints or drawings or as inserts for larger pictures. Inserts are frames inside of frames and are of great value for reducing the size of large frames. They will be dealt with in detail in a separate section.

In all of these Moldings, the beginner should at­tempt to secure basswood, whitewood or white pine. These close-grained, easily worked woods reduce the danger of splitting and are readily carved. Oak, birch, maple, etc., while attractive for their natural grains, should be left until one has gained enough wood­working experience.

LUMBER YARD BUILDER'S MOLDINGS

If, however, one plans to make frames only once in a great while, it will be found most economical to go to a regular lumber company dealing in builder's Moldings. These are available in a considerable range of profiles and sizes and are used for the "trim" in house building. With an inexpensive strip of wood of various thicknesses and widths attached to the back to form a rabbet, suitable Moldings can easily be made for picture frames.

The strip attached to the back to form the rabbet should be at least ¼" thick and of the correct width to make the rabbet about ⅜" deep. It should be attached properly by glue and clamps only, but if it is necessary to nail it, be sure to avoid cutting into the nails and dulling the saw when the molding is cut into the right lengths.

Some builder's Moldings are sufficiently thick so that the lumber yard can cut a rabbet directly into the stock.

These Moldings can naturally be decorated and finished like any other molding although it will be found that the wood is distinctly uneven in quality and consequently harder to work. There will also be slightly more waste through the discard of defective pieces. But for your first efforts it will provide an economical method of experimentation.

READY-MADE RAW WOOD PICTURE FRAMES

If sufficient elementary wood-working tools are not owned and investment in them is not desired until it is seen what can be done with finishing, it is wisest to buy frames ready-made to size in raw wood. Any picture framer will make them up, but if standard sizes can be used many art stores carry them in stock at lower prices. This is a recent development and an expanding industry. Only a few rasps or carving tools, brushes, tin cans and jars are all the equipment needed for finishing.

At any rate, it is advised that one compare prices and select the method or source for frames which best fills one's needs and which is most economical.

Complete directions on how to construct frames by various methods, and full descriptions of basic fin­ishes are presented in the following sections.

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